Bengaluru’s newest eatery, Nimisserie, the brainchild of chef Nimish Bhatia, promises to “satisfy your hunger by feeding the curiosity, senses and desire”. Bhatia is a well-known figure in the Bengaluru culinary circuit, courtesy his long spell heading the kitchen at the Lalit Ashok. And location wise, he seems to have picked the perfect spot – Nimisserie is located bang in the heart of the city, on Brigade Road.
Walk into Nimisserie and the first things that hits one is the glitzy decor: faux crocodile skin chairs, red ruby bead curtains, gold mats on the table. It was hard not to feel overwhelmed by the shine and glitter. Nimisserie’s cuisine is a modern interpretation of Indian food, infused with theatre and drama. You could choose from their degustation meals (Rs. 3950, 2950 and 1950 for 11, nine and seven courses) or a la carte. Suitably hungry, we take degustation route which left us feeling comfortably sated and uncomfortably disappointed at various points.
The meal started off on a tepid note with the appetisers: the reconstructed chilled samosa – melon skins filled with pomegranate, the tomato bubble soup served with a herb infusion and the date and duck confit, set the tone for innovation, but lacked in taste. But the argula salad, which was dramatically served with smoke infusing the salad bowl, was spot on. It brought a range of textures to the table with dhokla discs, delicately spiced lobster toppings and crunchy plantain chips, upping our expectations for the main course.
Our palates, suitably cleansed by tangy jamoon chuski, were largely not disappointed by the main course. The flash-grilled snapper, in delicious flavours of kasundi mustard, served with a fiery nimbu relish, nano hoppers – bite sized appams – and a moilee cream, beautifully smooth, was high on flavour and every bit of the dish complemented each other.
The trio of dals – masoor dal three ways – dal tadka, khichidi and chaat flavoured – were rich, perfectly seasoned and well paired with miniature phulkas served with may-have-been-avoided mascarpone. The chicken roulade essence biryani was refreshing in flavour and served in a cute, miniature pressure cooker. The salan came in a saucepan and the raita in a glass bottle. But the Australian lamb chop with the nihari sauce seemed a tad salty and overcooked for our taste as did the soya boti.
The treasure chest of desserts pleased more than disappointed. The misti doi creme brûlée had the crispness of the creme brûlée and the earthy taste of the doi but the chlorophyll panacotta with sago pearls had a medicinal aftertaste. The cheese platter was frankly a misfit and we could have done without it.
The staff is knowledgeable and service largely unobtrusive. Nimisserie promises much, but it would do well, in the coming days to make the marriage of technique and taste more harmonious.
Where: 120, Brigade Road, off Wood Street
Time: 12 pm-3 pm and 7 pm-11pm
Meal for two (a la carte): Rs 4000 without alcohol (approx)