December 17, 2016 12:00:02 am
Meal for two: Rs 2,500 (inclusive of taxes)
Address: N-6, 1st Floor,GK- 1
In the recent Doctor Strange movie, the titular character is advised to forget everything he thinks he knows before commencing with his training. We recommend you do the same with Thai food before having a meal at Thai House by Kylin. Forget those technicolour curries and soups which make your lips pucker, forget the cloying heat of honey-chilli sauces and anonymous bits of chicken stuck on to a skewer and sold as satay. Full disclosure: we love all that fire, smoke and mirrors but the food at Thai House is a revelation. The good kind.
Spread over two poster pages, the menu is a large selection of dishes you’re more likely to find in a Thai home than in a Thai restaurant.
The Tom Yums and Khas, the variegated curries and the satay are all there but they’re merely incidental, the true bounty lying in the rest of the dishes, split into sections such as salads, grills and woks.
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We begin our meal with Grilled Butterfly Jumbo Prawns, a Spicy Grilled Tenderloin Salad and Rustic Fish Parcels. The prawns flutter in first, split down the middle, the sweet, slightly charred flesh suffused with the woody smell of the grill and smoking slightly as we wantonly tear it out of its shell. Accompanied by nam phrik (the traditional sauces that accompany Thai cuisine), we could endlessly eat just the prawns but the fish parcels soon break our reverie. Steamed in banana leaves and marinated with red curry paste, the basa fillets are fresh and melt in the mouth.
The salad comes next, with chewy strips of tenderloin scattered among a forest of winter greens, fresh scallions and other roots — bound together with a super tangy marinade which rouses your taste buds with a kick. This is just as well, considering the next dish is the Thai staple of Crab Cakes, that come with a significant amount of crabmeat stuffed in its actual shell, the entire affair then coated and fried.
Dip in your choice of sauce and repeat ad finitum. Also in the mix is some Morning Glory (locally known as nale ka patta, given its favourite growing place) stir fried with chilli and garlic, the tannin flavour of the leaves tempered by the heat of the chillies.
For our mains, we encounter some more prawns, this time in an aromatic gravy with a red curry base, apart from Stir Fried Minced Chicken and Crispy Fried Cat Fish, along with steamed rice. True to its name, as soon as the claypot it is served in is opened, the aromatic prawn curry fills the air with what we’d like to imagine a Thai kitchen smells like. The dish certainly hits all the right notes of sweet, sour, spicy and bitter, a balancing of flavours which is the ideal of Thai food. Meanwhile, the mince chicken tastes exactly like the anda bhujia you get at home, except made with chicken bits instead of scrambled eggs.
Dessert comprises the sole fusion item on the menu: a Spicy Chilli Chocolate Ice Cream, made in-house, as is everything else served in the restaurant. When you first take a bite, it seems a pleasant if generic ice cream, but it slides down your throat like a suddenly woken dragon, streaming heat and fire in its wake. We couldn’t have asked for a better ending.
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